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I am a Textile Artist
ColeV
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The business of Golden Hind Millinery is officially open! Check out my etsy shop and keep an eye on it for the next week as many more things will be posted very soon. I have a couple hats, aprons, kerchiefs, and a hand-painted fan coming up next. And remember, I gladly take custom requests!
Hi, I love your work! I was particularly drawn in by the "Dotted Silk" one you posted. I am planning on making my own silk suit, but need some advice on period patterns on the silk (looking at silk damask and brocade). Also, could you give me any advice on color schemes? Basically, I am going to make a double breasted waistcoat, frock coat, and breeches around the year 1780. My original plan was to make something similar to what Ioan Gruffudd wore in Amazing Grace (silver silk db waistcoat and navy blue frock coat). But the navy blue seems a little dull for the persona I created (a wealthy Long Island merchant). I still love the idea of a silver waistcoat, but what colors would you recommend for the frock coat and breeches? Also, do you have any recommendations for places to buy the silk from? I apologize if I seem any bit demanding, but when I saw your profile and talked to Eliza (I think you know her- Eliza West?) I knew I had to say something. I'd greatly appreciate anything you could afford to give me for advice.
Hey, I'm sorry to bother you again, but I do have one more question. You really seem to know your stuff, and I would be a fool to ignore any advice you might give. What do you recommend I use for the interfacing for the frock coat? Horsehair, perhaps...? Then too, would I interface the button-areas, collar, chest and shoulders? And finally, would I have to interface the double breasted waistcoat (which is part of the suit)? As you may well tell, I am not terribly familiar with interfacing, and have only used it once in the brown wool frock coat Eliza and I made... I would greatly appreciate any help you could offer me here.
--
"Be civil to all; sociable to many; familiar with few; friend to one; enemy to none. " -Ben Franklin
Sorry this took so long, I didn't even realize it was here! Horsehair is perfect. The most important areas are along the front edges where you have buttons and buttonholes. If it's not well interfaced the weight of the buttons pulls the top corner down and creases across the coat. I haven't explored much extant mens things, but what I've made has that strip extend out from a 3" piece to the armscye/shoulder area once you get to the chest. Usually has a second layer in just the button area. Collars and cuffs need it too. You probably want to interface the waistcoat for the same reason, as well as the reasoning that it's the men's version of stays (for posture) and shouldn't be floppy. Depending on how soon you're starting this, I'll be going to a waistcoat/coat workshop in 3 weeks and can give you better info.
Thank you! When it comes to mens wear (especially 1780s) stick to small designs, like those dots. Imagining anything larger in print, other than stripes, looks rather comical. A silk woven blend can also do well. Wools wouldn't be beneath that position either, if of fine quality. The heavier damasks and brocades are a bit earlier in the century, this fabric is about taffeta weight. As for color, you don't want bright or flashy. Silver is a very classic waistcoat color, so good choice there. But a man in the North East would be fairly practical compared to an English aristocrat, unless you really want an uppity persona! Or to be called French.... Navy, burgundy, dark purple, and neutral tones (greys, beiges, browns) are good. I've seen a few stranger colors, like frog green, pink, or lavender, but that's more Virginia fashion or for balls. If you want to show wealth you can always do some fancy buttons and save the really unusual silk fabric for the waistcoat. What is it for? If you're looking at something more seasonal that can really affect the fabric you'd want. Or even day v night. My top three fabric places are Burnley & Trowbridge (call to ask, a lot isn't online), WM Booth, and Renaissance Fabrics. I recently found a great site for taffeta as well if you're looking for something more formal. Hope some of that helps! And say hello to Eliza for me, and tell her that she needs to come back down here soon!
Well, I am hoping to use this suit for more formal occasions like balls or Christmas parties (like English Country Dancing and the fancy, 5+ course meals). This wouldn't necessarily be for every day wear since the only time I could really pull out my civilian persona would be on such formal occasions. But you suggest silk taffeta though, more so than damask and brocade? Also, speaking to Eliza, she suggested that I use plum or dark green for the coat and breeches. She doesn't like the idea of duller colors as silver and navy blue, and insists that those (green or plum) would look better on me. Perhaps a dark green frock coat and breeches and a silver waistcoat, or maybe plum and a silver waistcoat (I think plum would go a bit better with the silver...?). But as for the actual patterns, I was thinking something like [link] for the waistcoat while the frock coat and breeches would be severely subdued or even just a solid color.
I will have to check out B&T and Renaissance Fabrics (they sounded really familiar) but I am very quite familiar with Wm Booth. That last one you sent (that I found the link to) I really like! I think I did good finding you here on deviantART! Thanks, and please if you can still afford to, keep sending me some information. I plan on going to Old Montreal this weekend for silk. Now that I have a couple more online resources I can go there with some more ideas or I might even decide I like the ones online better! Oh and I'll let Eliza know you said hi and that you want her back down there again. Did you know that she's going to Halifax for college...? Thanks again!
Thank you for joining our club! We're proud to have you as a member. If you have any 18th century related artworks you would like to submit to the club gallery, just send us a note with the links and we take care of it.
Cheers //18thcenturyclub bluekite and swillsucculent
Hey! I'm a huge fan of period fashion, but not so much of cosplay/replica making etc. But I stumbled upon your work somehow, and I gotta say I'm extremely impressed! Your skills are obviously advanced, and you make 18th century gowns so accuratley. They're all just gorgeous! I shall definitely be watching you!
Grand Opening!
Artistic
Basically, I am going to make a double breasted waistcoat, frock coat, and breeches around the year 1780. My original plan was to make something similar to what Ioan Gruffudd wore in Amazing Grace (silver silk db waistcoat and navy blue frock coat). But the navy blue seems a little dull for the persona I created (a wealthy Long Island merchant). I still love the idea of a silver waistcoat, but what colors would you recommend for the frock coat and breeches? Also, do you have any recommendations for places to buy the silk from?
I apologize if I seem any bit demanding, but when I saw your profile and talked to Eliza (I think you know her- Eliza West?) I knew I had to say something.
I'd greatly appreciate anything you could afford to give me for advice.
I would greatly appreciate any help you could offer me here.
--
"Be civil to all; sociable to many; familiar with few; friend to one; enemy to none. "
-Ben Franklin
--
[link]
--
[link]
As for color, you don't want bright or flashy. Silver is a very classic waistcoat color, so good choice there. But a man in the North East would be fairly practical compared to an English aristocrat, unless you really want an uppity persona! Or to be called French.... Navy, burgundy, dark purple, and neutral tones (greys, beiges, browns) are good. I've seen a few stranger colors, like frog green, pink, or lavender, but that's more Virginia fashion or for balls. If you want to show wealth you can always do some fancy buttons and save the really unusual silk fabric for the waistcoat.
What is it for? If you're looking at something more seasonal that can really affect the fabric you'd want. Or even day v night. My top three fabric places are Burnley & Trowbridge (call to ask, a lot isn't online), WM Booth, and Renaissance Fabrics. I recently found a great site for taffeta as well if you're looking for something more formal.
Hope some of that helps! And say hello to Eliza for me, and tell her that she needs to come back down here soon!
--
[link]
But you suggest silk taffeta though, more so than damask and brocade? Also, speaking to Eliza, she suggested that I use plum or dark green for the coat and breeches. She doesn't like the idea of duller colors as silver and navy blue, and insists that those (green or plum) would look better on me. Perhaps a dark green frock coat and breeches and a silver waistcoat, or maybe plum and a silver waistcoat (I think plum would go a bit better with the silver...?).
But as for the actual patterns, I was thinking something like [link] for the waistcoat while the frock coat and breeches would be severely subdued or even just a solid color.
I will have to check out B&T and Renaissance Fabrics (they sounded really familiar) but I am very quite familiar with Wm Booth. That last one you sent (that I found the link to) I really like! I think I did good finding you here on deviantART!
Thanks, and please if you can still afford to, keep sending me some information. I plan on going to Old Montreal this weekend for silk. Now that I have a couple more online resources I can go there with some more ideas or I might even decide I like the ones online better!
Oh and I'll let Eliza know you said hi and that you want her back down there again. Did you know that she's going to Halifax for college...?
Thanks again!
Cheers
//18thcenturyclub
bluekite
I'm a huge fan of period fashion, but not so much of cosplay/replica making etc. But I stumbled upon your work somehow, and I gotta say I'm extremely impressed! Your skills are obviously advanced, and you make 18th century gowns so accuratley. They're all just gorgeous!
I shall definitely be watching you!
--
because we're better than you...
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